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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 7:18 pm 
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I am considering using African blackwood for a bridge. I purchased a nice, almost quartered piece from Gilmers. After cutting it in blanks I noticed how heavy it is. Seems it comes in as the second heaviest wood in the Wood Data Base.

I know it is a rosewood but it sure looks a lot like ebony.

Is it suitable for a SS jumbo bridge?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 8:02 pm 
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Joe: The more weight the strings have to move, the less responsive the guitar. Might be worth while to check your bridge on a gram scale.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 8:16 pm 
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Thanks guys.

Filippo, I too like them from a little off quarter to riff cut. I think that helps it not to split.

I am a little worried about weight. I roughed this one out a little smaller than my usual. I'll finish it up and see what the weight comes in at.

It is mighty pretty wood.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 8:48 pm 
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I finished the bridge up. It weights in at 41.3g. I made my last batch of bridges with some Brazilian rosewood but its all gone now. They weighed in at 32-34g. The Blackwood bridge is smaller by a tad. I'm not sure what difference if any the heavier bridge will have. The build I made this for is a lightly braced, .105" lutz topped medium sized jumbo.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 9:08 pm 
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I think I'll Try that. Thanks for the idea!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 10:03 pm 
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I'd stick with the lower density rosewoods on jumbos, since the weight of the plate itself is already high. Did you weigh the braced plate?

And I'd shave a lot more off of that bridge, toward the back end of it, even if it was a lighter wood. Only the part in front of the saddle slot really needs to be tall. Although if your saddle routing method requires a level surface, that could be a problem.

But I generally subscribe to the theory that it's very difficult to get the weight too low, at least when building with wood. People build heavy-topped guitars all the time and they seem to still sound good, but I always wonder if they'd sound even better if I could swap out a big 30-40g ebony bridge for a slim 20-30g BRW or padauk :)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 11:34 pm 
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If you like it then you shoulda put a slot in it.

Like Filippo said, you will lose a few grams.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:59 am 
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If you like it then you shoulda put a slot in it.

Like Filippo said, you will lose a few grams

I don't know..... don't you think it will distract from the look of it?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:58 am 
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Todd Stock wrote:
Jeff used AB for his #2, but his bridge design is similar to the Weissenborn-style bridge, with the slope on the belly running at about 8 degrees and pins angled back the same. Don't have a shot of his, but it came in at something like 32 grams, which is pretty light for a Blackwood bridge. Here's something similar, but Jeff's has less belly and more slope behind the saddle.

That's what I'm talkin' about [:Y:] I route the slot and drill the holes first, then taper the thickness from the back side to tilt them along with the surface. Angled saddle slot = more force pressing down on the bottom of the slot and less trying to crack the bridge. Plus if you make it perfectly vertical, then it will actually be a touch forward angled under tension.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:24 am 
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+ 1 lighter is better. Where did you get AB dennis?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:41 am 
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ernie wrote:
+ 1 lighter is better. Where did you get AB dennis?

I haven't actually made a blackwood bridge yet, but I have a few blanks from Hibdon. It really is impressively heavy. Definitely won't be using it on classicals, but I do want to try it on a small/medium sized steel string.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:08 pm 
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Since I have never physically seen or used AB is it similiar to macassar ebony?? black with whitish/gray stripes ?? thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:17 pm 
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I'd say it looks more like Cocobolo but only in a monochrome with black and dark greys.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 2:10 pm 
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So what is a good weight for a bridge?

What does heavier do to sound?

I'm putting this one on a medium sized jumbo with a top that weighed in at 346g before final trimming to size and finish sanding

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 4:04 pm 
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I had the same question a while back (maybe year and a half ago). I definitely wouldn't use ABW for one of my classicals but it worked out just fine on this steel string (sorry, couln't find a pic of just the bridge).
The bridge came in at just under 32 grams. I do, however, have an identical bridge, my first attempt still kicking around the shop somewhere. It came in at 36-37 grams if I recall and that was a little heavier than I was comfortable with. Just the difference in sg between the two blanks.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 4:56 pm 
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Joe Beaver wrote:
So what is a good weight for a bridge?

What does heavier do to sound?

I'm putting this one on a medium sized jumbo with a top that weighed in at 346g before final trimming to size and finish sanding


A heavier bridge will make the guitar less responsive, meaning slower attack and decay (notes take longer to bloom but sustain longer). Heavier reduces high frequency response which can smooth out harsh or shrill trebles. A lighter bridge will increase volume considerably. So all in all, if all else is equal, a heavier bridge will give a quieter, mellower tone.

I like to keep my bridges on steel stringed guitars less than 30g, but there's no reason you have to... people add relatively heavy things like walrus ivory or brass pins and saddles to their guitars all the time which pretty much has the same effect. If you like the tone it produces, go heavy.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 5:40 pm 
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Good info.

I did take the wings down as Filippo suggested. It weighs in at 39.9 so it lost about a gram and a half with very little sanding. I think after the slot is cut (I do it after the bridge is installed), it will come in around 38g. Is that reasonable for cutting a 3"x1/8"x3/36" slot where the material weighs 81.7 lb/cubic foot?

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